"Estimativa das contribuições dos sistemas energéticos e do gasto energético total na escalada esportiva indoor" / ESTIMATIVE OF ENERGETICS SYSTEMS CONTRIBUTIONS AND COST ENERGETIC IN INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING

AUTOR(ES)

Rômulo Cássio de Moraes Bertuzzi

DATA DE PUBLICAÇÃO

2005

RESUMO

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the contributions of the energetic systems and the total energetic cost, during the indoor rock climbing. The anthropometric variables, body composition, upper limbs maximal aerobic power and the Wingate test for the upper limbs were evaluated in 14 climbers (Elite group = 7; Recreation group = 7). Besides, the Elite group have climbed three routes with different levels of intensity (easy, moderate and hard) with the continue measurement of the oxygen uptake during these tasks and with the measurement of the peak blood lactate concentrations during the recovery, while as the recreational climbers group have climbed only the easy route under the same conditions. The calculation of the aerobic, glycolytic and ATP-CP systems were made by the measurement of the oxygen consumption, peak blood lactate concentrations and alactacid oxygen debt, respectively. The calculation of the total energetic cost was made by the sum of these three systems. The main results were: a) the anthropometric variables have secondary contribution on the rock climbers performance, b) the oxygen consumption and the heart rate have a non-linear relation during the ascension of the climbing routes, c) the aerobic and the ATP-CP systems have priority on the energy transference in the indoor rock climbing, independently on the routes intensity or the ability level of the individual, d) the metabolic profile and cost energetic don’t have a linear relationship with the route’s difficult increment; e) the minor energetic cost is more important for the performance in this sport than the improvement of the bioenergetic systems.

ASSUNTO(S)

débito alático de oxigênio alactacid oxygen debt oxygen uptake lactato cinética do consumo de oxigênio lactate gasto energético consumo de oxigênio energetic cost oxygen uptake kinetics

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