Development of cosmetic formulations containing panthenol and evaluation of their hydration effects on human skin by using Skin Bioengineering Techniques / Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas contendo pantenol e avaliação dos seus efeitos hidratantes na pele humana por bioengenharia cutânea

AUTOR(ES)
DATA DE PUBLICAÇÃO

2006

RESUMO

Vitamins have been extensively used in cosmetic formulations and panthenol, which is vitamin that is a normal constituent of the skin and has humectants and wound healing effects, has large application in this category of products. Due to the importance of the conduction of studies that contribute to the assessment of the influences of the vitamins on the physical stability of dermocosmetic formulations, as well as the necessity of scientific studies that confirm their benefits, the aim of this research was to develop cosmetic formulations containing panthenol in different concentrations and also to evaluate their physical stability and their efficacy in the skin hydration and viscoelastic properties. For this purpose, eight formulations were developed, three gels containing hydrophilic polymers (formulations 1, 2 e 3), other three cream gels containing hydrophilic polymers and silicone microemulsion (formulations 4, 5 e 6) and finally two emulsions, one containing batyl alcohol and lecithin (formulation 7) and the other one containing shea butter and carbomer (formulation 8). These formulations were supplemented or not with 0,5; 1,0 e 5,0% of panthenol and submitted to preliminary stability tests. The physical stability of formulations was evaluated by determination of the viscosity and rheological behavior. After this, stable formulations were submitted to a previous sensorial analysis. The formulation efficacy was evaluated using the following non-invasive methodologies (Skin Bioengineering Techniques) determination of hydration of the stratum corneum, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin viscoelasticity and biological elasticity. In order to evaluate the immediate effects, the formulations were applied to the forearm of 20 volunteers and the measurements were carried out after 1 and 2 hours of a single application. In addition, for the evaluation of long-term effects of the formulations, the same parameters were measured after 15 and 30 days of daily application to the forearm of 40 volunteers. In the experimental conditions of the study, it was possible to conclude that the formulations 2, 5, 6 and 7 were considered stable. Moreover, formulation 6, according to the volunteers, showed the best sensorial attributes, and for this reason, was selected for the efficacy study of the panthenol on human skin. The study of the immediate effects showed that all the formulations enhanced the stratum corneum water content values after 1 hour of the application. However after 2 hours, only the formulation supplemented with 5% of panthenol produced significant increase in this parameter. In addition, the study showed that only the formulations supplemented with panthenol produced a significant decrease in TEWL, protecting skin barrier function. Nevertheless, no significant alterations were observed in the skin viscoelastic properties. Concerning the study of the long-term effects, all the formulations supplemented or not with panthenol produced a significant increase in skin hydration after 15 and 30 days of daily formulation application, when compared with the baseline values. No significant alterations were observed in skin viscoelasticity and biological elasticity properties in the long term studies. The evaluation of the TEWL showed that only the formulations supplemented with 1 and 5% of panthenol improved the skin barrier function, resulting in a significant decrease in this parameter after 15 and 30 of daily application of these formulations, which can suggest that to present significant long-term effects on skin barrier function, the formulation under study must be supplemented with higher concentrations of panthenol, such as 1 or 5%.

ASSUNTO(S)

estabilidade física skin bioengineering techniques cosmetics. cosméticos bioengenharia cutânea panthenol physical stability pantenol

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