Development and clinical studies using instrumental methods of topical formulations containing fermented soybean extract / Desenvolvimento e estudo de eficácia clínica por métodos instrumentais de bases de uso tópico contendo extrato de soja fermentado

AUTOR(ES)

Rafael Pinto Vieira

DATA DE PUBLICAÇÃO

2008

RESUMO

Facial masks are used since antiquity and, currently, its use has spread according to their multifunctional characteristics. Among the effects attributed to these preparations there are deep cleaning; invigorating, stringent, moisturizing and tensor actions and well-being sense. They can be classified according to their application, components or risk degree. Peel off facial masks based on polyvinyl alcohol are formulations that form a film on the face after application and drying. After their removal, they cause tenderness, cleaning and tensor action on the skin, removing dead cells of the stratum corneum other materials deposited. Soybean extract obtained from soymilk fermentation by Bifidobacterium animale has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and high levels of free isoflavones, when compared to nonfermented milk. Its use in cosmetic formulations aims to avoid aging effects on skin, providing moisturizing, softness and tensor effect. Peel off facial masks and emulsions oil in water preparations, containing or not fermented soymilk 5% w/w were evaluated in physical and physical-chemistry stability studies in various temperature and time conditions, targeting the best formulations for clinical tests. Results indicated that preparations containing extract remained stable about their characteristics, showed no significant variations. Preparations were submitted to clinical studies in volunteers to evaluate tensor, moisturizing and transepidermal water loss effects. In a short-term study, results confirmed that peel off facial masks formulations, containing or not soybean fermented extract, showed no statistically significant difference in comparison to emulsion formulations on elasticity and firmness promotion and decreasing on transepidermal water loss. However, peel off facial masks provided greater hydration on skin surface layers than the oil in water emulsion preparations.

ASSUNTO(S)

cosméticos máscara facial polyvinyl alcohol peel off facial mask cosmetics extrato de soja soybean fermented extract Álcool polivinílico moisturizing hidratação

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