Avaliação da eficácia e segurança do extrato de folhas de Rubus rosaefolius Sm. visando a aplicação como conservante em produtos cosméticos / Effectiveness and safety evaluation of Rubus rosaefolius Sm. leaves, regarding to the preservative use in cosmetic products

AUTOR(ES)
DATA DE PUBLICAÇÃO

2009

RESUMO

Cosmetic and pharmaceuticals products contained natural compounds have increased in the last few years. To verify the use of these compounds as preservative in formulations, the antimicrobial activity from the raw extract of the Rubus rosaefolius Sm. leaves and its fractions was determined. The toxicity in vitro and the behavior in cosmetic formulations (gel, emulsion and shampoo), regarding to the stability, effectiveness of the preservative system, and epidermal compatibility were evaluated in the extract, which had the best preservative action. The antimicrobial activity was determined by the micro dilution method, and the 0.2% concentration (w/v) of the raw extract had the best performance. The toxicity of the extract was analyzed by Cell Titer 96® colorimetric; MTS method in human keratinocytes culture, and the index of cytotoxicity (IC 50) found was 1.0 mg/mL. The cosmetic formulations with the raw extract were analyzed regarding to the stability and the best formulations were submitted to preservative challenge test, according to CTFA procedures. The preservative system was effective against Escherichia coli IAL 2393 (ATCC 10536), Pseudomonas aeruginosa IAL 1874 (ATCC 9027), Staphylococcus aureus IAL 1875 (ATCC 6548), Burkholderia cepacia IAL 1834 ATCC (17759), and Candida albicans IAL 1611 (ATCC 10231). The epidermal compatibility of the formulations was verified by skin (dermo-epidermal) equivalent, three-dimensional system, cultivated in the air-liquid surface. The results showed there were differences in the epidermal compatibility depended on the ingredient of formulation. In conclusion, the raw extract from the Rubus rosaefolius Sm leaves 0.2% (w/v) can be used as preservative candidate in the cosmetic formulations analyzed due to stability and it presented epidermal compatibility.

ASSUNTO(S)

rubus rosaefolius sm agentes microbianos (atividade) produtos naturais (aplicações terapêuticas) natural preservative produto cosmético plantas medicinais farmacologia cosmetic product cell culture atividade antimicrobiana cultura celular antimicrobial activity medicinal plants rubus rosaefolius sm conservante natural pharmacology

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